Archive for the 'Conversations with Chefs' Category
Hello and Welcome to the first videocast of “Best of The Best” with Chef Marc.
Join Chef Marc in Episode I of his visit to Toledo, Spain. In this important medieval town, he roams the streets of this beautiful city and explores the second largest fish market in the world with Chef Adolfo Muñoz. Finally, Chef Muñoz shows us how he prepares a wonderful lobster dish.
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The World Cup of Fine Dining: The Italian-French Connection
Dining with Chef Damiano Ferraro in Agrigento, Sicily
Chef Marc Vogel with Chef Damiano Ferraro at “Baglio della Luna”
If Italy is shaped like a boot, then Sicily is its soccer ball. Zoom out and you’ll see France situated as the player’s body– okay, enough of the Rorschach-ian Inkblot World Cup metaphors. What I can tell you is that Chef Damiano Ferraro has brought the French cooking technique to Italy– specifically to the seaside town of Agrigento on the southern coast of Sicily. Born in Sicily and apprenticed in some of Europe’s finest kitchens, Chef Ferraro brings a wonderful balance of fresh Sicilian product and French technique to the diner’s at “Baglio della Luna.” Listen in as we go to Sicily!
Hotel Baglio della Luna | C.da Maddalusa S.S. 640 km 4, 150 | 92100 Valley of the Temples, Agrigento, Italy | Ph. +39.0922.511061 | Fax +39.0922.598802 | info@bagliodellaluna.com
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For those of us in the Bay Area accustomed to Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse Café and the like, cozy surroundings and exquisitely creative cooking may seem nothing new. Fresh locally sourced food and wine, spontaneously bought yet prepared to exacting standards, form a definitive part of the casually elegant style that is the way of life in Northern California.
In Paris however, small restaurants serving moderately priced in-season fare with haute touches, are considered a culinary movement. Known as gastro bistros, they take the techniques – and chefs – of traditional three star restaurants and make them shine in a more relaxed, near-improvised and tucked away dining atmosphere.
Inside Le Comptoir
Yves Camdeborde was one of the first chefs to open a gastro bistro, embracing a sense of wonder and hospitality in his work with a focus on the art of gastronomy itself, rather than status and reputation in the French culinary world. In the early 1990’s he opened La Régalade while his contemporaries in the ‘movement’ opened other, similarly small and obscure locales in various outskirt neighborhoods of Paris. But now, with the opening of Le Comptoir du Relais Saint Germain in the Left Bank, his place and other gastro bistros (Thierry Blanqui’s Le Beurre Noisette, Thierry Breton’s Chez Michel, Thierry Faucher’s Le Cave de L’Os à Moelle) often have a longer wait list for reservations than some of the finest Michelin garnished three star restaurants in the vicinity.
Lobster Bisque
Salade Nicoise
Osso Bucco
Dessert
Join Chef Marc as he visits with Yves Cambdeborde at Le Comptoir. After listening to this, you just might need to plan that much needed trip to Paris. Make your reservations now!
Le Comptoir
Hôtel Relais Saint-Germain
9, carrefour de l’Odéon
Paris 75006
phone: +33 (0)1 44 22 07 97
fax: +33 (0)1 46 33 45 30
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Pierre Gagnaire
An undaunted free spirit rides his racing motorcycle around Paris, roaming the gastronomic laboratories of this great city. Pierre Gagnaire is now working with Hervé This, a microbiologist. Together they are exploring renewed depths of flavor and taste.
Last month while I was in Paris I was quite fortunate as I walked up Rue de Balzac, to his restaurant. It was a cold, blustery, four-layer morning. I was going to go in and ask him for an interview, but as I was 20 feet from the restaurant, Pierre was walking out of his restaurant to his motorcycle, parked on the sidewalk, I said “Hey Chef,” and re-introduced myself as it had been six years since we last talked- just after his last trip to California and when he had invited us to his restaurant in Paris. (Which, of course, I came to try.) We talked and he invited me over to interview him the following night as he had a buyout that evening. I thanked him, as he pulled his black helmet over his silver racing grey hair, zipped up his leathers, coat and all, and roared down Rue de Balzac with all of the aplomb of a veteran Parisian motorcycle courier. I laughed, gave myself a mental “high five,” and thought how lucky to catch him walking out of the restaurant and avoiding the usual genuflections to his staff in order to get the interview. I was happy that he and I recognized each other, because going through his staff would have been monumental task.
The following night I returned at 7pm sharp and he came in right on time and we talked for a quick 30 minutes. I asked him during the interview, “What is your favorite dish to cook?” His answer: “My next one,” a brilliant response that explains his forward thinking philosophy, his restaurant, his attitude and his passion. What can I say about his food, his restaurant, his refining flavors, that hasn’t been written or said already? You don’t ask the Pope if he has seen a picture of the Vatican, and hence I wasn’t asking Pierre about Soup d’Oignon.
Join me on a culinary adventure with Pierre Gagnaire. As it was more comfortable for him, Pierre spoke in French but I must say he does speak English well. For non-French speakers we do have a translator with us. Jump on in as I interview one of the 6 best chefs in the world.
ChefMarc Vogel
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Ame, a tidal wave of deliciousness hits San Francisco! Chef Marc surfs the Sashimi and more!
Japanese Egg Custard “Chawan Mushi”
with Maine Lobster, Sea Urchin and Mitsuba Sauce
Husband and wife team, Chef Hiro Sone and Lissa Doumani share their time between Terra, one of Napa Valley’s finest and San Francisco’s new South of Market hit restaurant, Ame. Ame graces the ground floor of the chic St. Regis Hotel.
At “Ame” you will find Sashimi and Pasta on the same menu- an East meets West in, appropriately enough, the cosmopolitan city we love- San Francisco. As Italian and Japanese foods can often vary wildly in materials, taste, and flavors, on this night we favored the decidedly Japanese side of the menu.
“Tuna Five”
Tataki, Zuke, Tartare, Bottarga and Mojama
Broiled Sake Marinated Alaskan Black Cod
and Shrimp Dumplings in Shiso Broth
On a previous visit we tried some of the Italian-influenced dishes but tonight we were in the mood for tasting a variety of seafood and well, is Pork still a see-food? You bet. We pleasantly paired a variety of shashimi, appetizers, and main courses. We then threw in a couple of desserts and several wines by the glass from around the globe (Italy, France, Australia, Hungary and Slovenia) to round out a remarkable dining experience. On our next visit we look forward to a Sake tasting– c’mon, how many countries can you taste in one dinner? Could this restaurant be the harbinger of globalization– all on one table on one evening? We’ll let you decide.
Come tableside with Chef Marc and friends at “Ame” where you’ll experience the food, the wine, and enjoy a laugh or two with Hiro, Lissa, Sommelier Anani Lawson, Timothy our server, and a passerby patron.
Grilled Kurobuta Pork Chop with Roasted Winter Root Vegetables and Dijon Verjus
Okay, so someone couldn’t wait until the photo was taken…check out Ame’s web site to see how this is really plated. Mmm…still looks good though, don’t ya think?
Ame Restaurant
689 Mission Street
San Francisco CA 94105
+1 415 284 4040
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